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Chapter Seventeen – Toile Silhouette

Updated: Jan 8, 2019


Toiles were new to me when I started fashion school. I had never even thought of the actuality or necessity of them. They do make sense though.


Now just for clarity I've finally looked up the definition from Merriam Webster.

  • Definition of TOILE 1: any of many plain or simple twill weave fabrics; especially LINEN 2: a mock-up model of a garment

  • Origin of TOILE French, cloth, linen, from Middle French First Known Use: 1794

I guess I was spot on. I had always called them mock-ups to my friends and family.


I accepted the idea of them readily and find I do a lot of designing through them. I was always a little surprised by this, but it all makes sense now that I associate them with massing models. It is just second nature.


I tend to almost baste them rather than sew them for the ease of altering them. Between the pins and pens they can get pretty marked up. At this point it is all about the overall look and trying things out.

It is a crucial step for really getting the silhouette and fit correct. I embraced them from the start, but I was surprised by the response from others.


The interior designer caught on fast, but my boss kept asking if that was the color it was going to be.

He did better fine tuning the details of the actual test garment. Julie just accepted the process as a perfect model and let the whole thing unfold and come in to clarity as it progressed.


Now linen is what they say is the fabric of toiles and I am sure that would be a heavenly luxury to use, but I have embraced sheets. A $3 special in the States and a worn out set here. Always hated to just throw them away once they rip.

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